Wazwan, the royal feast
Wazwan is a multi course meal cooked by specialist chefs called waza. Guests traditionally share a large copper plate (trami) in groups of four. A full Wazwan can run to many courses, and it is served at weddings and celebrations.
Signature dishes
| Dish | What it is |
|---|---|
| Rogan Josh | Lamb in a deep red gravy coloured with Kashmiri chilli |
| Gushtaba | Pounded mutton balls in a yoghurt gravy, the traditional last course |
| Rista | Mutton balls in a red saffron and chilli gravy |
| Yakhni | Mutton in a mild yoghurt and fennel gravy |
| Tabak Maaz | Lamb ribs simmered then fried until crisp |
| Methi Maaz | Tripe and fenugreek preparation |
Vegetarian favourites
- Dum Aloo: whole potatoes in a spiced yoghurt gravy
- Nadru Yakhni: lotus stem in yoghurt gravy
- Haak: Kashmiri collard greens
- Chaman: paneer in a red or yellow gravy
- Monji Haakh: kohlrabi cooked with its greens
Breads, drinks and sweets
- Girda, lavasa, tsochwor and bakarkhani from the local kandur (baker)
- Kahwa: green tea with saffron, cardamom and almonds
- Noon chai (sheer chai): pink salted tea
- Phirni: ground rice pudding, often set in clay bowls
- Harissa: slow cooked mutton porridge, a winter breakfast
How to order a first Kashmiri meal
If you are new to Wazwan, ask for a small tasting portion before committing to a full celebratory spread. Rogan Josh is a rich red meat curry, while Yakhni is gentler and yoghurt-forward. Rista and Gushtaba are both meatball dishes but are served in different gravies. Pair one or two with rice, then leave room for kahwa or noon chai.
Wazwan is traditionally shared from a trami by four guests, but restaurants may serve individual plates. Ask what the menu actually includes and whether the kitchen needs advance notice for a full meal.
For vegetarian travellers
Kashmiri vegetarian cooking is more than a substitute for meat. Nadru (lotus stem) is crisp and earthy, haak is a simple leafy green, and dum aloo uses whole potatoes and warm spice. Recipes differ between households and restaurants; ask whether a preparation uses meat stock and whether yoghurt or ghee is included if you have dietary restrictions.
A breakfast worth waking up for
Try a fresh girda from a neighbourhood kandur with salted noon chai. On cold mornings, harissa is a slow-cooked meat preparation often eaten early; it may sell out. Ask your hotel where a nearby bakery opens, rather than planning breakfast around a distant restaurant.
Common questions
Is Kashmiri food very spicy?
Usually not. Kashmiri chilli gives colour more than heat, and fennel and dried ginger lead the flavour.
Can vegetarians eat well in Kashmir?
Yes. Kashmiri Pandit cuisine and many restaurants offer excellent vegetarian dishes.